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Modern Routes
Modern Routes
The Route From Kashmir:
Today,
travellers from Srinagar drive on this route in the relative comfort of taxis,
local buses or their own vehicles, taking two days and breaking journey at Kargil.
It provides the best possible introduction to the land and its people. At one
step as you cross the Zoji-la, you pass from the lushness of Kashmir into the
bare uncompromising contours of a trans-Himalayan landscape.
Drass, the first major village over the pass, inhabited by a population of mixed
kashmiri and Dard origins, has the local reputation of being the second coldest
permanent inhabited spot in the world. But in summer when the pass is open and
the tourists are going thourgh, the standing crops and clumps of willow give
it a gently, smiling look.
After Drass, the valley narrows, becoming almost a gorge. Yet even here it occasionally
allows space for small patches of terraced cultivation, where a tiny village
population ekes out a precarious existence. This is indeed a mountain desert,
greened only by such scattered oases.
On departure from Kargil, the road plunges into the ridges and valley of the
Zanskar range over a huge mound of alluvium, now made fertile by a huge irrigation
scheme. Mulbekh with its gigantic rock engraving of Maitreya (Buddha-tocome)
and its gompa perched high on crag above the village, is the transition from
Muslim to Buddhist Ladakh. It is followed by two more passes, Namika-la (12,200
feet/ 3,719m) and Fotu-la (13,432 feet / 4,094 m).
From Fotu-la, the road descends in sweeps and shirls, past the ancient and spectacularly
sited monastery of Lamayuru, past amazing wind-eroded towers and pinnacles of
lunar-landscape rock, down to the Indus at Khalatse- a descent of almost 4,000
feet/ 1,219 m in about 32 km. The Indus valley from Khalatse up to Upshi, where
the road from Manali comes in, is Ladakh's historical heartland.
The road follows the river, passing villages with their terraced fields and
neat whitewashed houses, the roofs piled high with fodder laid in against the
coming winter. Here and there the observant traveller notices the ruins of an
ancient fort or palace or the distant glimpse of a gompa on a hill a little
way from the road. The last of these is Spituk, only eight km. Out of Leh. And
at last, Leh, the capital town of the region is visible, dominated by the bulk
of its imposing 17th century palace.
Golden Triangle